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Fix a Leaky Kitchen Faucet Step by Step

The most common mistake people make: they buy parts before diagnosing the faucet type. There are four main types — ball, cartridge, ceramic disc, and compression — and each has a completely different fix. Identify yours first or you will buy the wrong repair kit.

Step 1 — Identify Your Faucet Type

Step 2 — Shut Off the Water

  1. Turn off the shut-off valves under the sink (clockwise until firm)
  2. Open the faucet to release pressure and drain remaining water
  3. Plug the drain so small parts do not fall in

Step 3 — Disassemble and Inspect

  1. Remove the handle — pry off the decorative cap, unscrew the screw underneath
  2. Pull out the cartridge or ball assembly
  3. Inspect O-rings, washers, and seals — if cracked, dried, or flattened, that is your leak

Step 4 — Replace the Right Parts

Step 5 — Reassemble and Test

  1. Wrap threaded connections with plumber's tape (2-3 wraps)
  2. Reassemble in reverse order
  3. Slowly turn the water back on and check for drips

When to call a plumber instead: If the faucet body itself is cracked, if the leak is at the base of the spout (valve seat damage), or if pipes behind the wall are involved — those require professional repair or full faucet replacement.

Pro tip: Take your old cartridge or washer to a Home Depot or Canadian Tire and match it physically — do not rely on the brand name alone, since manufacturers often change internal parts across production runs without updating model numbers.

What you need

Faucet Repair Kit

Essential — get a universal kit or one matched to your faucet brand (Moen, Delta, Kohler). Includes O-rings, washers, springs, and seats — covers the most common failure points.

$10-20
Replacement Faucet Cartridge

Essential if it is a cartridge-type faucet. Bring your old cartridge to match it, or search your faucet model number. Swapping the whole cartridge is faster and more reliable than patching individual parts.

$15-35
Plumber's Tape (Teflon Tape)

Essential — wrap around threaded connections to prevent leaks at joints. A $3 roll prevents a lot of frustration. Not a substitute for replacing worn parts, but always use on reassembly.

$3-6
Plumber's Grease (Silicone Grease)

Highly recommended — lubricates O-rings and rubber seals before reinstalling so they seat properly and last longer. Do not use petroleum-based grease — it degrades rubber.

$8-12
Plumber's Tape (Teflon)

Essential for any plumbing job. Wraps around threaded connections to prevent leaks.

Plumber's Putty

Seals gaps around drains and faucets. Stays flexible for years.

Needle-Nose Pliers

Essential for pulling out cartridges, gripping small springs and seats, and working in tight faucet cavities without damaging parts.

$12-20
Adjustable Basin Wrench

Essential — reaches the tight space behind the sink to loosen mounting nuts and supply line connections. A regular wrench cannot reach these spots.

$20-35
Adjustable Wrench

The one tool you need for most plumbing repairs. Get a 10-inch.

Bucket

Catches water during repairs. Also useful for mixing, cleaning, carrying parts.

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